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Tech Tips


Tech Tip:  Always plan your notches to use the smaller (acute) angle as your target and not the obtuse angle. Any time that you use the holding assistants in your lay-up, always position them so that there is an unobstructed view of the acute angle so the snap collar can be positioned correctly to mark the starting point for the notch.
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Video Tech Tip: Here's a simple method to accomplish a double 45 deg notch. Set your SYNC180 to 45 deg and position the 180 deg jig to match the swing arm (using the 180 jig and making the rear cut is only necessary for larger tubing). Slide the tube into the jaws and position top centerline of the tube to intersect with an imaginary centerline of the holesaw (see the video on how to accomplish this). Secure and notch. Using the snap collar, position it so as to mark a centerline on the opposite side of the tube. Rotate 180deg without shifting the tube position left or right and secure and notch. Finish by grinding the resulting points back to wall thickness. Watch Video

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Tech Tip: To accurately gauge the initial length of the tube correctly it is important to measure from centerline to centerline. To help know where the centerline is exactly, draw a large "dot" in the vicinity of where the joints are to be. Take a straight edge or tube and span the two tubes. Rub it across the dots which in turn will remove the ink and thus create a thin centerline.

 

Video Tech Tip: And here's another quick and easy way of referencing centerline of a tube from one end to another. After a notch is cut and while the tube is still in the notcher, position the swing arm so you can lay a length of any size tube (or any metal straightedge) across the top of the holesaw and span to the other end of the tube. Rub the two tubes together and you will get a shiny mark that will also be centerline. This reference is important in positioning for the last notch. And often times it is necessary to reference a mark on the opposite side of the tube - which can easily be done with the snap collar.  Watch Video

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Tech Tip: If you encounter the problem of the final piece being either too short or too long, realize that the most likely reason is simply due to not paying particularly close attention to your markings and cut positions. Since there are several markings that take place during the process know that even the slightest deviation or offset mark can compound into the final piece being off dramatically. Try using a finer tip marking pen and try starting any cut consistently from an edge of the mark and not the middle of it. It is very important to stand square with where you are marking and measuring. You can very easily be off a considerable amount if you view from an angle.  Also often times a holesaw can have a bit of a wayward tooth, usually on the weld joint. This can result in a bigger than normal cut so check your holesaws before you begin a notch. If necessary knock down the tooth with a file or sander. And always check your notcher prior to each cut to make sure nothing has worked loose. Any change or shift in either the notcher or work piece would also be cause for a sloppy notch. Be aware that any loosely clamped tube or unsecured swing arm can result in a jammed holesaw (and sheared teeth) and possible damage to your notcher!  

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Tech Tip: Normally 3/4" tubing is the smallest diameter that can be securely clamped in the jaws. However you can clamp smaller tubing by placing a thick flat plate on the inside of one of the jaws. But note that smaller diameter thin wall tubing will prove difficult if not impossible to notch because the holesaw position is too far away from the support of the jaws. Always use extra caution in attempting to notch any radical position or size.

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Tech Tip: Unlike most other holesaw-type notchers, that start an angled notch cut from the end of the tube, the SYNC180 will typically begin the notch cut from the side of the tube using what we refer to as the front cut. Starting at this position is important because the EASYNOTCH Calculator determines the starting point based on the front cut position being referenced. This is true for all angles but it should be noted that for angles greater than about 45degs you can also begin the notch using the rear cut if you "puzzle" the holesaw up against the inside of the tube. This method can be accomplished of course without having to even consider where you will exit the tube because if you start with the holesaw against the inside wall of the tube it will exit at the proper point. Again this is only true for those angles that are greater than about 45deg.

 

.Video Tech Tip: For those of you that are notching right angles and cutting multiple notches of the same, here's a tip that should help speed things up. To set up a stop block guide, use the right combination of shim plates to lay up against the farside edge of the holesaw. Hold it in place using another flat plate and then slide the tube up against it. It's quick and easy to position each piece. However keep in mind that this backset length (in the list below) is calculated based on .095 wall thickness and the shim combinations are only "close". So if the wall thickness is something different then you would adjust accordingly.  Fig. 1 Showing flat plate (shim) to locate edge of holesaw.  Fig. 2 Shims functioning as stop block. Slide tube up against the stop block. Tighten vise. Watch Video


Outside Diameter Point of backset to position edge of holesaw Target Shim Thickness to achieve backset Closest Shim Combination
1/16 1/4 3/8 1/2 3/4
         
3/4 .12 .610 2      
7/8 .16 0.695    
1 .21 0.780      
1-1/8 .25 0.855 2      
1-1/4 .28 0.940    
1-3/8 .33 1.015      
1-1/2 .38 1.100 2    
1-5/8 .43 1.165    
1-3/4 .48 1.240      
1-7/8 .51 1.335 2    
2 .56 1.4    
2-1/4 .67 1.54  
2-3/8 .70 1.625    
2-1/2 .76 1.690